The Pentacon Six System
by TRA

Wouldn’t it be better to use a digital camera?


That is a question that only you can answer, as it depends on your imaging requirements and your budget.  However, here is some information to consider when making a decision.

There are at least  ten key factors:

  • Shutter delay
  • Image quality
  • Focal length multiplier effect
  • Speed of turn-round
  • Cost
  • Control of the image
  • Sensor dirt
  • Dead Pixels
  • Viewfinder  New
  • Differential focus  New
A good camera that uses film will give you four of these: no shutter delay, great image quality, no focal length multiplier effect and reasonable cost.  For speed of turn-round you need either a polaroid back or a digital one.  But neither of these will give you the same quality as film at reasonable cost.

There are also other factors, such as the enjoyment you may derive from using one system or the other, being able to control the output, and the time that you have available.

Shutter delay

My limited experience with friends’ digital cameras (“Here.  You take the pictures for me; your pictures always come out so well!”) is one of constant frustration because of the delay between pressing the shutter and the camera deciding to take the picture.  With people shots (or any action shots), the precise moment is crucial.  If the camera fires even one second later, the image is probably not worth having, as gestures and candid expressions can be so fleeting.  Time was when all digital cameras seemed to have a delay of up to 2 or 3 seconds, which is really quite unacceptable.  Many of the newer models are much better, but there is still the delay introduced by autofocus (OK, you can have that problem with film cameras, too, but why use auto-focus lenses?!).  In my opinion, digital hasn’t yet reached the point where you can even be sure of capturing good candids of the children – though you will know quickly that you didn’t get the shot that you wanted!

Image Quality

If you must have ultimate image quality and the ability to make massive enlargements, using film as the originating medium is still the way to go (at the time of writing!)

You may choose (like me) to shoot film, but print digitally.

If you scan in a “6×6” negative (actually 56mm × 56mm) at 4800 dpi, you will get a file that is 10,488 pixels × 10,488 pixels.  This results in a 629.4MB image – about one hundred times the resolution of most current digital SLR files!

  • This will produce a high-quality print at 300 pixels per inch that is 88.8 cm × 88.8 cm (34.96 × 34.96 inches)!
  • Many people print at 240 pixels per inch.  The image size would then be 1 metre 11 cm × 1 metre 11cm (43.7 × 43.7 inches)!
  • In fact, images this size are usually viewed at a certain distance, and you would easily obtain perfectly satisfactory results if you printed at 150 pixels per inch, giving you a print 1 metre 77.6 cm square (nearly six feet by six feet)!
Viewed another way, should the need arise, you could produce a perfectly satisfactory A3 print (that’s 29.7 cm × 42 cm or 11.7" × 16.5") from a tiny portion of the negative – I know, because I’m looking at such a print on my wall as I (touch!) type!

The focal length multiplier effect

Also bear in mind that even Medium Format sensors are not “Full Frame”: instead of a 56mm×56mm image you get something that is at most 48mm×48mm, and with many Medium Format backs substantially less than this.  This has an impact on all the lenses that you use, effectively making them appear to have a longer focal length.  This is especially a problem with wide angle lenses, where a 40mm ultra wide angle may provide coverage on a digital sensor equivalent to a 55 or 60mm lens on a full 56mm×56mm film frame – and in most cases with Medium Format equipment you will not find a wider angle lens available to give you the angle of view that you were expecting.  This is in particular a problem for shots of interiors, but can also be a problem for landscapes and other types of photography.

Speed of turn-round

Digital images give you of course an almost-instant turn-round, though it is not quite as instant as you think.  It does take time to

  • transfer the image from the camera to the computer
  • convert from raw to another format
  • process the image as required (contrast, sharpness, colour balance, etc)
  • produce the print
Cost

A digital back for a Medium Format camera such as the Hasselblad would currently cost you in the region of US$20,000, and even with this the image quality would be way below what you can achieve by shooting film in a Pentacon Six and then scanning it into your computer.  Using the mixed film/digital route is not a zero cost alternative, but you probably already have a computer and a printer.

A digital camera – even a 35mm one – may give you the quality that you need, but that won’t be in the same league as what you can get with film.  And even a 35mm digital SLR with a full-sized sensor will also cost you a lot more than a Pentacon Six.

Who is in control?  and What is the frustration factor?

A neighbour and good friend of mine has enthused about his new digital camera, and has insisted that I try it out.  Naturally, I was delighted to do this.  It is the latest model of one of the top-name digital compacts, with a 10 point something megapixel sensor and an 18× optical zoom.  I have taken a series of pictures in my studio with it, and here are my conclusions: 

1) It is capable of some good results, so long as the image is not displayed or printed too large, and subject to the other factors indicated below. 

2) Getting the right framing is difficult because: 

  • controlling the zoom exactly is impossible: press the lever to the left or right, but when you release it the lens keeps on zooming a split-second after releasing the lever, thus changing the framing, and making various attempts necessary; 
  • the image in the viewfinder does not exactly match what is recorded; in fact, the recorded image shows slightly less!! than the viewfinder image!  (The Pentacon Six safety factor gives slightly more, which can easily be cropped off if required, but if you have the edge of an item or of a person missing, there’s nothing you can do afterwards to correct that.) 
3) Controlling the aperture and shutter speed varies from difficult to impossible – and I did spend hours studying the 160-page operating manual!  (As you may imagine from the fact that I run this website, I am reasonably computer-literate.  I also cope well with video recorders, DVD players, microwave ovens and other electronic devices!)  Struggling with the menus, sub-menus and greyed-out options on this camera is at best frustrating and at worst stressful.

4) Because of the tiny sensor and the extremely short focal length that is consequently necessary for the lens, differential focus is impossible.  For instance, in a portrait, the background will be as sharp as the face, which is usually the opposite of what is desirable. 

5) The manual says that at some settings, “straight lines near the edge of the image may appear curved, or unexpected colours may appear. This is not a fault”!!  Well, that’s what experienced photographers call barrel distortion, pin-cushion distortion and chromatic aberrations or colour fringeing

6) Down-loading the pictures to the computer and converting them from raw is complicated and tedious – no batch conversion from raw is available, and following the on-screen instructions generates error messages.  There are work-arounds, but they do not appear to be documented.  Doing this processing is definitely not an enjoyable experience.

7) The main difference between this up-market state-of-the-art digital camera and a Pentacon Six is that with the Pentacon Six the photographer is in control and can easily control framing, shutter speed, aperture, focus, depth of field/differential focus and other factors that are crucial to the final image.  Of course, the Pentacon Six is bigger and heavier, and you have to wait until the film is processed to see your results.  But what counts ultimately is the quality of the image.  And here, the Pentacon Six wins hands down.

Conclusion: Not only do I enjoy the results I get from the Pentacon Six, I also enjoy the process of using it.  Neither could be said of my experience with this expensive digital camera, so why use it?

Sensor dirt

For the flexibility and quality that you seek, if you do buy a digital camera, you will probably want a “DSLR” – a digital Single Lens Reflex.  After all, only an SLR will enable you to change lenses, see and meter through the lens and build up a system that will enable you to go from extreme wide-angle to powerful telephoto, not to mention tilt, shift and macro work.

But after you have bought your DSLR you will discover a new problem: dust on the sensor.  No matter how carefully you change lenses, dust – and sometimes remarkably large bits of fluff and muck – will get into the throat of your camera, and when they are there, the electrical charge on the sensor will draw that dust, fluff and muck onto the delicate and highly-expensive sensor, where it will stick!  You can dust the rear of the lens before putting it on, point the camera downwards while changing the lens, only change lenses indoors – or anything else! – but sooner or later, dirt will settle on your sensor!  Some experts explain that the action of changing the focal length of some digital zoom lenses acts like a powerful pump to pull dust into the lens and from there into the camera.  If (sticky!) pollen gets onto the sensor, getting it off is going to be a big problem.  Like me, you may never have experienced this problem with a film camera, but with a digital SLR it will appear.

Worse, you are unlikely to see the dust, muck and fluff when you view the images on the camera’s screen; you will first see it on all your pictures from a given session, once you have downloaded them onto your computer.  Then you can have many happy hours, trying to clone them out!

Why haven’t you had this problem with film SLRs?  Well, each time you advance the film, you effectively get a brand new “sensor for the next image!

Of course, if your camera has dust in it, this can scratch the film, but:

  • this is rarely a problem with Medium Format cameras, as 120 film has protective backing paper the whole length of the film
  • this is more common with 35mm film, especially if using re-loadable cassettes
  • in the worst-case scenario, any in-camera scratch marks are usually too small to be visible on images at most degrees of enlargement.  (This is unfortunately not the case with dirt on a digital sensor.)
Naturally, for every problem there is a solution.  I can confirm from experience that the built-in sensor-cleaning technology via sensor vibration in the top-of-the-range digital SLR that I have tried out doesn’t dislodge the larger particles of dirtI suggest that you research the costs of sensor brushes, swabs, liquids, blowers, vacuums and other cleaning accessories before taking the plunge with a digital SLR.  By all means, go ahead, but don’t let anyone convince you that with a DSLR there won’t be on-going costs, because there will be, and sometimes quite high costs.

 
[dirtysensor1.jpg]
Full frame image of a clear blue sky.
Is it a bird?  Is it a plane?  No; it’s a bit of muck on the sensor!
[dirtysensor2.jpg]
Cropped image, with sensor dirt arrowed

In these two images, the dirt can be cloned out, but in other images where it was on a person’s face or other area of detail, correcting the damage was time-consuming, difficult and sometimes not entirely satisfactory.  Don’t be surprised if each time you fire the shutter on your digital SLR you find yourself asking, “Will this picture be spoilt by muck on the sensor?”
 
Dead Pixels

I am grateful to a visitor to this website for bringing this to my attention (in February 2011).  He writes:
my [digital] camera’s unfortunately under repair.  There’s another paragraph here for your “MF vs Digital” page, dead pixels as clear as day on long (20s) exposures.
I won’t name the camera brand, to protect the guilty - but it is one of the top two digital camera manufacturers! 

As indicated above with regard to dirt on the sensor, dead pixels will affect every picture.  I could say that a film fault would only affect one image - but I don’t remember ever experiencing such a film fault, in decades of photography.

Not surprisingly, this visitor has recently bought a Pentacon Six and a range of lenses.

Viewfinder

Perhaps up to a third of digital cameras by model have a viewfinder, but by number of cameras sold - if we are to judge by observation of people taking pictures in public places - over 90% do not have a viewfinder.

“So what?  Why do you need a viewfinder?” you may ask.  Here are a few reasons.  No doubt you will be able to think of more.

Composition
To compose an image properly, you need to be able to see it as near as possible as you will see the final picture.  This means that you need to exclude from your field of vision everything that will not be in the final image.  It is impossible to do this if you are composing on an LCD screen on the back of the camera - as the vast majority of people with cameras are now forced to do.  As you try to concentrate on the little screen, your eyes are simultaneously seeing the whole of what is in front of you, making an evaluation of the actual contents of the image area anything from difficult to impossible.  No wonder so many users are disappointed with the images that they end up with, and surveys tell us that most images taken with digital cameras are never printed and a high proportion of them are never viewed again more than once or twice.

Visibility of the image
In bright surroundings it can be anything from difficult to impossible to see the image on the LCD screen on the back of the camera.  That means almost anywhere outdoors in daylight, most of the year, in most parts of the world.  No wonder so many wonky pictures are taken - it’s often impossible to see the horizon clearly on the screen!

Focussing your eyes
Using the LCD screen on the back of a digital camera, your eyes need to switch from infinity focus (for most outdoor scenes) to extreme close-up - the distance of the camera from your eyes - then back to infinity when referring to the scene you plan to photograph.  For some people this just results in eye strain, which of course can soon trigger a headache for many people.  For others it is impossible, because they just can't focus their eyes that close.  There are of course two solutions:

  • put on your reading glasses - but then the scene will be out of focus to your eyes!
  • hold the camera at arm’s length - something that we can now observe people doing everywhere - but then most of the stability has gone, and even built-in stabilization won’t fully overcome this in low-light situations.
“Easy”, you say, “I’ll buy a camera with a built-in viewfinder.”  That is a great idea.  It will help you in all the ways suggested above.  Now you are back to all the decisions that people were faced with 50 years ago when choosing a camera:  “Shall I buy a camera with a separate viewfinder above the lens, or a camera in which the viewfinder actually sees through the lens? (A DSLR)”

The camera with the separate viewfinder has a couple of advantages and a couple of problems:
 

Advantages
Problems
  • It’s likely to be smaller than a DSLR.
  • It’s likely to be cheaper than a DSLR.
  • Parallax: what you see is not what you get!

  • Especially when shooting close up, be prepared for pictures where the tops of people’s heads - or the entire heads! -are cut off.  Also definitely no good for close-ups of flowers, pets, etc.
  • Focus:  depending on the model, the viewfinder may or may not give you an accurate indication of focus.

The digital SLR (Single-Lens Reflex) has all the advantages of SLR cameras.  It has a viewfinder that looks through the lens and enables you to check composition, focus etc.  Many of these are great cameras, but have you noticed a couple of things?

  • These cameras will cost you a lot more than a Pentacon Six.
  • If they have a high-resolution sensor, they might be about the same size as a Pentacon Six - by the time you have added a zoom lens - and virtually none of these cameras are sold without a zoom lens.


Differential focus

One of the superb advantages of Medium Format cameras is the possibility of differential focus.  This means concentrating the attention of the viewer on that part of the image selected by the photographer as the intended focus of attention, by skillfully throwing other parts of the image out of focus.  To achieve this, the lens needs to combine two characteristics:

  • it must be somewhat longer than normal;
  • it must have a very large maximum aperture.
This is just about possible with a full frame 35mm film or digital camera, with a very small number of lenses.  The 80mm f/1.8 Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar would be an example of such a lens.  There are some equivalent lenses available from Carl Zeiss for some full-frame digital SLRs - but expect to pay more than £1,000, in many instances around £1,500, for such a lens.

The problem is this:

  • The smaller the film format (or digital sensor size), the shorter the focal length of the lens must be for it to give a standard angle of view.
  • The shorter the focal length, the deeper the inherent depth of field.
  • With digital cameras (including many DSLRs) with a sensor size that is much smaller  than a “full frame” size (24mm × 36mm), the extreme short focal length that is required to include in its range a standard angle of view results in a lens where differential focus is impossible.
  • Add to this the fact that - to keep weight, size and cost down - the maximum aperture of most of these lenses is quite modest, perhaps f/4 or f/5.6.  At these apertures the depth of field is greater with any lens, and this is massively more the case with the short focal lengths that are required for most digital cameras.
Differential focus under the total control of the photographer is virtually essential for most portraits, and also for many other types of photography.  (You can read more about differential focus here.)

So, you could solve all these problems by going out and buying a medium format digital camera.  But have you seen the price of a Hasselblad H4D lately?  I can see one “on offer” right now for GBP27,666.00 - not including a lens!  Or you could buy a Pentacon Six - with most of the lenses you could ever need or want - for less than a tenth of this price!

The move “back” to film

We might speak of a move “back” to film - but there is a whole new generation of young photographers who have never used film, who are now discovering the joys and advantages of this medium.  Even on a digital photo forum I have seen in recent days requests for information on how to process film, and the suppliers are still out there, selling chemicals, thermometers, developing tanks, etc.  Alternatively, of course, you can do what the majority of photographers have done for more than a century: shoot film and let a lab do the processing.

Pentacon Six and digital!

So perhaps you should go for a Pentacon Six and digital.  This could be the best way forward.  Please see the next page.

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© TRA November 2005, August 2011